FASHFEST Runway Report – Show 4

 

Welcome to the second night of FASHFEST. After getting in to the swing of things on the opening night (catch up on our runway reports here and here) we returned to the red carpet to document our outfits before heading in to take our seats for the shows.

 

Bianca Pavlic The Label

 

 

This eponymous local label made its FASHFEST debut this year. Designed and assembled by hand in her home studio, Bianca is also mindful of textile waste and sustainable practice. Undeniably one of the strongest collections from the festival so far, what appeared on the surface to be sweet, feminine pieces had a darker, subversive undertone which was underscored by gothic makeup and scary-spice hair.

There was a spirit of school-girl charm with socks paired with sandals and garments like knickerbockers and pinafore dresses. Culottes, tops, pinafores and dresses were all loose, embellished and sheer, each playing with texture and proportion. Although a lot of skin was on show, the collection did not feel sexualised, but more an incidental display of the female form.

Beauty Note: Braided buns a la Scary Spice sat upon the models heads while bold, almost cartoonish brows and dark lips graced their faces.

 

CIT Show 2

 

 

The second CIT show for the festival featured garments designed by graduates of the Diploma of Applied Fashion and Merchandising who are now part of The Ideas Brewery, a program dedicated to supporting fashion graduates. Designers were asked to interpret and question contemporary culture and society through clothing.

Like the previous night the CIT show pushed the boundaries of clothing by exploring form, function and proportion. As each look came down the runway, we played a guessing game trying to link the garment with the societal norm it might be questioning. Was the hooded cloak that looked almost like a sleeping bag commenting on homelessness? Was the denim two piece ensemble that looked like a cross between a workers coverall and something Justin Timberlake wore in the 90s talking about gentrification?

Garments were made up mostly of denim which was slashed, embellished, draped and spliced to create pieces that were exploratory and intelligent.

Beauty Note: The models faces were left simple with matte skin and neutral tones.

 

Paula Ryan by Nunie

 

 

Canberra based boutique Nunie presented another collection from a New Zealand designer, Paula Ryan. The label specialises in comfortable, quality pieces made from natural fabrics. The collection presented was commercial and wearable with simple dresses, tapered trousers and flowing tops in block colours making way for wide leg trousers, sheer dresses and subtle prints.

Beauty Note: Bronze eyes, sleek hair and dewy faces.

 

Portmans

 

 

Australian retailer Portmans makes its debut on the FASHFEST runway. Known as the destination for up to the minute styles and versatile essentials, Portmans was founded in Melbourne in the 1940s. The collection featured pieces seemingly made for corporate life. Blazers, pencil skirts and dresses looked as though they would easily transition from office desk to bar.

Beauty Note: Clean matte skin with hair pulled up into sleek ponytails.

 

MJ Bale

 

 

This menswear label was launched in 2008 by Matt Jensen who wanted to create a unique fashion experience with a close supply chain linking Australian woolgrowers, Italian weavers, Japanese tailors and the customer. Luxurious suits made up in light summery colours, checks and florals. Pieces were mixed, matched and styled with pocket squares and ties

Beauty Note: The male models embraced their natural rugged looks.

  

De Challie Haute Couture

 

 

Designer Hajar Gala trained in the French method of haute couture at the International Fashion Academy and since 1993 has created timeless, elegant pieces. This year, as well as making her FASHFEST debut, her work will also be presented in Paris and New York. Beaded bodices, cascading tulle, lace overlays, corset backs, ruching, bustles: everything you would expect from a collection of couture gowns was present in this collection.

Beauty Note: Hair hung in natural braids or loose curly up-do’s while makeup was simple and radiant with nude lips and winged liner.

 

Read our full report for FASHFEST Show 1, Show 2, Show 3, Show 5 and Show 6.

 

Team Leiden on the night consisted of Emma Batchelor, Jesse Petrie, Miriam Walsh, Cleo Pilcher and Johanna Dziadkiewicz who is also the offical FASHFEST illustrator.

Team Leiden

Sometimes it takes more than one Contributor to make magic.

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